Malaay Qumbe (Coconut Fish Curry) Recipe • 5★

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

Published September 18, 2024

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Variations of coconut fish curry abound up and down the Swahili Coast, so much so that the dish is often broadly referred to as East African fish curry. Although Somalia has the longest coastline in mainland Africa, seafood is not a prominent part of mainstream Somali cuisine. But you’ll find malaay qumbe in coastal Somali towns. This version of coconut fish curry leans heavily on xawaash, a spice blend that is at the heart of Somali cuisine. The mild heat from the xawaash’s black pepper balances beautifully with the sweet, cooling coconut milk and the acidity from the tomatoes. Serve over plain white rice, or soak up the creamy coconut gravy with a flatbread like muufo. Malaay qumbe would also work well on top of soor for a hearty meal of creamy spiced coconut fish and grits.

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1 pound barramundi or other firm white fish (such as halibut or cod), preferably 2 to 3 pieces

1 ¼ teaspoons fine sea salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large white onion, finely diced

2 large roma tomatoes, finely diced

¾ cup cilantro leaves

6 garlic cloves, minced

4 teaspoons xawaash (see Tip)

1 (14-ounce) can of unsweetened coconut milk

White rice, soor or flatbread (optional), for serving

Step 1Season the fish with ½ teaspoon sea salt; set aside.

Season the fish with ½ teaspoon sea salt; set aside.

Step 2In a large pot over medium-high, heat oil until loose and rippling, about 1 minute.

In a large pot over medium-high, heat oil until loose and rippling, about 1 minute.

Step 3Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until completely soft, about 8 minutes. When the onion is soft, stir in tomatoes and cover. Stir and smash down tomatoes every once in a while until they cook down completely, about 7 minutes.

Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until completely soft, about 8 minutes. When the onion is soft, stir in tomatoes and cover. Stir and smash down tomatoes every once in a while until they cook down completely, about 7 minutes.

Step 4When the tomatoes have disintegrated, stir in cilantro, garlic, xawaash, the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, then the coconut milk. Cover and cook for 5 minutes.

When the tomatoes have disintegrated, stir in cilantro, garlic, xawaash, the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, then the coconut milk. Cover and cook for 5 minutes.

Step 5Add the fish, making sure it's immersed in the coconut milk. Cover and cook until the fish is tender, white and flaky, about 8 minutes. Take the curry off the burner as soon as the fish is done, so it doesn't overcook.

Add the fish, making sure it's immersed in the coconut milk. Cover and cook until the fish is tender, white and flaky, about 8 minutes. Take the curry off the burner as soon as the fish is done, so it doesn't overcook.

Step 6Serve over rice, soor or accompanied by a flatbread of choice.

Serve over rice, soor or accompanied by a flatbread of choice.

To prepare your own xawaash blend, add 8 teaspoons ground cumin, 2 teaspoons ground coriander, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves, ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom to a small nonstick pan. Toast over low heat, stirring continuously, for 1 minute or until the spice mix becomes fragrant, then stir in 1 teaspoon ground turmeric. (This makes 4 tablespoons xawaash.)

I don't usually make comments, as I typically make recipes as printed, but now--having departed from the recipe and omitted the 8 teaspoons of cumin entirely from the xawaash mixture, I would like to crown my cumin-free rendition of Malaay Qumbe an enormous, self-judged success. (Should I say it went over swimmingly with my friends and family? Does anyone fact-check these claims?) Next time beef for the fish, Yoo-Hoo for coconut milk, and it'll be 5 stars indeed.

PS, That xawaash blend with cumin (I called it cumin in my comments) is a keeper spice blend, thanks! I make my own spice blends to retain freshness in my pantry by cycling through spice staples. I really appreciate such recipes for blends that have been tested and work in NYT recipes. It’s not hard to make them and the flavor is superior (and customizable if necessary to make substitutions or ratio adjustments)

We loved this, and we normally don’t do fish curries. I used tinned tomatoes I had on hand and added a few sliced baby bells (gorgeous colors), used less cumin which I feared would overpower the dish for our tastes (we like fish, and authenticity wasn’t my goal). Sweet potato side, cilantro and lime to garnish, served over brown rice. Spouse says we need to make that again and went back for more. Tastes special, but so easy on a weeknight! I’d serve it to guests.

Could you swap out the fish for chicken?

Perfect with a side of chickpeas and steamed pumpkin. The limes are a must. Tad on the salty site, will use half the salt next time. There's enough left over curry sauce to refrigerate and add more fish for a second meal!

Loved it! I made it with sable (aka black cod) because my local market was short on cod, so the fishmonger recommended the sable, which was actually priced less than the cod. The butteriness of the sable went well with the fat from coconut milk, and the spice blend is absolutely amazing. This recipe is going into our repertoire.

Source: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1025936-malaay-qumbe-coconut-fish-curry