New power at the Bower House
SOMETHING’S cooking in Shipston… and it’s tastebud-blowingly good.
The town has long been proud of its independent businesses, and it has always boasted a lively social scene which has supported a high number of pubs - in fact it has more per capita than anywhere else in south Warwickshire, possibly the world (we have not fact-checked that last bit).
At the upper end of the market (but still affordable) the Bower House is having what you might call a renaissance, doing its best to use local suppliers and put the town firmly on the gastronomic map.
Owned by Andrew Knight and family, who live in nearby Compton Scorpion, it opened its doors in 2017, but has been given fresh impetus under new-ish chef Leo Kattou - who is leading the restaurant into a new era, and delighting palates as he does so.
Full disclosure, I was invited to dine there recently, and the food was stunning. From the most delicate poached lobster to melt-in-the-mouth duck, everything was sublime. And I’m still dreaming about the delectable mid-course-amusement Jammy Dodgers conjured by Leo, that were a cheeky baked savoury version, with cheese and tomato replacing the usual UPF ingredients of the famous brand. Bliss.
What’s more the whole menu, on the night I dined, was full of fresh produce from local suppliers, making it a real community affair, including: champagne from great old wine shop Sheldons; lobster, fruit and veg from Turners, now into their family business’ second generation; duck from the butcher, Richardson-Hill’s, which opened in the town last year; and cheese from Taste Of The Country.
Chef Leo, aged 32, is a local-ish lad who was born into the catering business. He explains: “My parents had a fish and chip shop in Coventry. And as much as I kind of loved it, I hated it at the same time. I was eager to learn. From 10 years old, I’d be filling the fridge up or helping my dad peel potatoes.
“Then I decided from a young age, about 14, that I wanted to take a different path, to become a chef.”
Straight out of school, Leo studied at University College Birmingham, and once he’d finished culinary school he got a job at the Michelin-starred Simpsons in Edgbaston, where he worked from 2008 to 2022.
“I loved every minute while I was at Simpsons, it was just such a magical place to work,” he tells FocusLife. “I learned so much from the brilliant people in the team, it was fun.”
Speaking of his move to the Bower House, Leo continues: “I decided just before my 30th birthday, that I fancied a change - I’d been at Simpsons from a young boy to a man. I took a few months off work, went back home to Cyprus, where my family is from. And now I’m lucky to be here at the Bower House.”
The love of food is something that Leo inherits from his family.
“It's still a big part of my culture: sit around the table. The first thing we did when I came back from Cyprus was have a meal and let the conversations flow. That’s what I like about the Bower House, that family feel - people coming together for amazing food and talking.”
Speaking of culinary approach, Leo says: “It’s about having the best quality ingredients and let them showcase themselves. I'm not trying to reinvent anything; or be the next Heston Blumenthal. What I love about food is we just keep it to its natural form and treat it with a lot of love and respect.
“And what you'll notice at the Bower House is there's not 18 different ingredients on the plate. There might only be five, but you'll get five of the best ingredients you'll ever eat. And that's what it's about.”
Leo is keeping things British - with just the odd splash of alcohol sourced from elsewhere.
“Everything is British on the menu. Like, fish-wise, this morning I've got some beautiful Newlyn skate.
“It's about buying the best British ingredients we can. My lamb is always South Coast lamb; and the beef comes from a beautiful farm in Gloucestershire. What inspires me is when I speak to the suppliers and they tell me what's around. They design our menu, basically.
“I think I have about eight WhatsApp groups with different suppliers. Every morning, first thing, at half seven in the morning, they all start texting me. Even if it's something that’s only in season for like two, three weeks, I'm going to try and use it because it's such a beautiful ingredient. And we go foraging ourselves a little bit and pick our own elderflower and wild garlic. I've got fig trees in my back garden which I'm going to start using on the menu next week.
“The little things from nature are amazing. For example, the crab at the moment, it's beautiful crab from Brixham. We just treat it with a little love and make it into a little delicate tart. Visually it's appealing and when you eat it, it's just soft and fresh and the textures make it so moreish. That's what it's about.”
As well as producing great food, Leo is busy nurturing the next generation of local chefs.
“We have got two amazing apprentices, both from University College Birmingham. They are about to do the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts Apprenticeship Scheme as well. To be associated with the Royal Academy is such an achievement and, as a restaurant, it’s great to be associated with them.
“I'm so proud of them. They're both local Shipston boys, Zach Hill and Josh Gibbons, who are 17.
“The whole team is fantastic. I worked with manager Giuseppe at Simpons, and we’re loving what’s happening at the Bower House right now, which is great food and service that is accessible and affordable for everyone.”
And where, apart from the Bower House, would the chef Leo’s ideal meal be?
“A beautiful little fishing town in Cyprus. There's no menu per se, you sit on the seafront in plastic chairs, paper tablecloth - they have the best fish, the best salads, great olive oil, and then the company around you and that sound of the sea. For me, that’s heaven on earth.”